ASHLEY RUDDER, M∙A∙C SENIOR ARTIST US
What is your first M·A·C foundation memory?
I was 16 when I got my very first M∙A∙C Foundation which was
in a gorgeous, shiny, black M∙A∙C Studio Fix Powder Foundation Compact in C7. Back
then the “Single Digit C” shades had shiny compacts, and I thought I was hot stuff
pulling it out of my backpack!
With so many shades for different skin tones, what’s the
best way of finding your true M·A·C foundation shade? Any special tricks?
Matching the jawline and neck are the first places I look
when blending foundation to ensure that the shade is traceless as it
transitions into the body. At times, the center of the face may be lighter than
the perimeter, so adjustments can be made with concealer shades in those areas.
M∙A∙C is known for its diverse shade range. What does NC and
NW mean and what’s the difference between them? And how can somebody determine
what is suitable for them?
NC stands for Neutral Cool, however in plain terms, every
foundation starts with an even amount of yellow and red creating a peach base.
From there a touch more yellow is added to better match golden to olive skin tones.
NW stands for Neutral Warm, the same process applies as
mentioned above, however more red is added once the peach base is created.
Using a swatch method is the best way to decide which
undertone you prefer. After many years of matching clients, I have learned that
matching goes beyond the physical match, and has to also satisfy them
psychologically as well.
The watch test allows this to be determined quickly, so that
if someone wants to colour correct, be lighter, be darker, or have more yellow
or red added to his or her natural tone, it can be easily decided upon once the
swatch is applied.
How are M·A·C foundations best applied – with fingers,
sponges or M·A·C makeup brushes (what are some of your favourite brushes and
why)?
I prefer using brushes to apply foundation initially, and
then I use my fingers to press the product in and blend further if needed.
M∙A∙C 109 Brush can be paired with liquids or powders to
create a gorgeous foundation look.
M∙A∙C 191 Brush is flexible like your fingers and blends
liquids tracelessly for an ultra-natural finish.
M∙A∙C 137 Brush has the ability to work powder foundations
in a way that looks modern and realistic.
Which M·A·C foundations provide fuller coverage and which
ones provide a lighter more sheer coverage?
Full Coverage – M∙A∙C Studio Fix Powder Plus and M∙A∙C Studio
Fix Fluid SPF 15 give skin room to breathe while covering generously.
Sheer Coverage – M∙A∙C Studio Face and Body and M∙A∙C Mineralize
Skinfinish for a promised soft coverage and luminous finish.
Can you recommend foundations ideal for:
Oily skin – Trust M∙A∙C Studio Fix Fluid SPF 15, M∙A∙C Studio
Fix Powder Plus, M∙A∙C Matchmaster, M∙A∙C Studio Tech to flawlessly control oil
and perfect skin’s texture.
Dry skin – To hydrate, try M∙A∙C Mineralize Skinfinish or M∙A∙C
Studio Sculpt SPF 15 for buildable coverage and natural finish.
Combo skin – M∙A∙C Studio Face and Body and M∙A∙C Studio
Sculpt SPF 15 provide a lightweight payoff on the skin, blendability, and
lasting coverage.
Can you provide 3-5 steps to create a natural/skin like finish?
Step 1: Start by using a primer like M∙A∙C Mineralize Timecheck
Lotion – it acts as a clear foundation that perfects and refines skin before
applying your actual foundation.
Step 2: Apply your foundation in thin layers to ensure a
natural look. If you are heavy handed use duo fibre brushes, like M∙A∙C 130
Brush or M∙A∙C 187 Brush instead of flat brushes to minimize the amount of
foundation that you are using.
Step 3: Invest a bit more time to strategically cover
blemishes. Use fluffy brushes like the M∙A∙C 217 Brush or M∙A∙C 224 Brush to
spot check imperfections. I even often recommend the M∙A∙C 209 Brush or M∙A∙C 219
Brush to cover tiny blemishes.
Step 4: If you plan to use powder to complete the look,
first mist the face with Prep + Prime Fix + to reduce the powdery look on the
surface of the skin. Top with preferred powder product of your choice.
Step 5: Mimic the normal colouring of your skin. This is
very important in creating a natural look. If your perimeter is darker and the
center of your face is lighter, it may be best to use two shades to create true
reality.
What foundations are ideal for –
Hot weather - You can’t beat M∙A∙C Studio Fix Fluid’s ability
to keep skin matte no matter the temperature.
Humid weather - M∙A∙C Studio Face and Body is a go-to for combatting
H2O in the air.
- M∙A∙C Pro Longwear Nourishing Waterproof Foundation is bulletproof in any weather condition.
Cold weather – M∙A∙C Mineralize Skinfinish has such a nurturing
mineral complex that is the perfect formula to pamper skin through the winter.
Dry weather – M∙A∙C Studio Waterweight has the nourishing
and conditioning elements needed to keep the face looking and feeling its best.
Are there any tricks to prep the skin for a flawless
foundation application?
Taking the time to hydrate, moisturize, and prep the skin are
essential to longevity, smoothness, and traceless coverage.
Any tips for building coverage or layering different M·A·C
foundations? Which foundations are best to do this?
Using a soft stippling motion with a fluffy brush over
blemishes is an easy and quick way to strategically build coverage without
compromising a natural look.
I generally avoid layering foundations because when they are
layered, there tends to be a heavier result. It’s best to select a foundation
that has the appropriate coverage and finish that you desire, thus improving
the result and opting for less steps in your routine.
What is the best way to set your foundation? And to refresh
your foundation after a long day?
The interesting thing is that most M∙A∙C Foundations are self-setting,
and don’t need any additional help to be long-wearing. Of course, we do
encourage prepping the skin with products in our M∙A∙C Prep + Prime line, as
they enhance the application and wear.
If you are wearing an emollient foundation and wish for the
finish to be different or for it to be set, you should use a soft powder brush
to pick up a delicate amount of powder, and apply sparingly to maintain a
natural look. If there is a lot of moisture on the surface of the skin, use M∙A∙C
Blot Film first to remove the excess moisture then apply powder.
Can the same foundation be used throughout the year?
Yes it can, however this truly depends on your skin’s needs
and what look you desire. Having a foundation wardrobe is just like having a
few great pairs of jeans. Some are for a night out, some have a specialty
finish, and some are more relaxed. Foundation works in the same way, and having
a few formulas just expands your options.
How often should you replace your foundation?
I would recommend that you keep liquid or powder foundations
no longer than a year once opened to ensure optimal performance.
What are some do’s and don’ts when applying foundation?
Do’s – Less is more. Start with a medium coverage foundation
and practice applying concealer strategically to cover blemishes and
discoloration.
Don’ts – Stop relying on your foundation to cover all of
your blemishes. Remember that your foundation is just that - the foundation of
your skin look. Concealer, and sometimes powder are necessary friends to
foundation that create modern skin, and should contribute to the look
accordingly.
Why are M·A·C foundations tested backstage during Fashion
Week?
A model’s skin has to look flawless, real, and photograph
beautifully, so these demands make fashion week the perfect testing arena for
foundations.
*PR materiāli no Polhem PR Riga
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